Ephesus is one of the best-excavated cities of the ancient Mediterranean. The temple of Artemis was lost under river silt until the British engineer John Turtle Wood, after years of searching, found its remains in 1869; many of his finds went to the British Museum. Today a single re-erected column marks the spot in a marshy field.
Since 1895 the Austrian Archaeological Institute has excavated the city itself, and its work continues. Visitors walk marble streets, see the terrace houses of wealthy families with their wall paintings, and stand in the great theatre, which could seat something like 20,000 to 25,000 people. Its present form reflects rebuilding after Paul's day, but a theatre stood there in the first century, and it fits the riot in Acts well. A long inscription of AD 104, the Salutaris foundation, describes processions carrying images of Artemis through the city and into that theatre, a vivid picture of how deeply the goddess was woven into civic life. The famous Library of Celsus is from the second century, after the New Testament.
The harbor silted up long ago, and the ruins now lie several kilometers from the sea. What archaeology shows is the city's scale, wealth and devotion to Artemis. It does not, and could not, show where Paul taught; the hall of Tyrannus has not been identified.
Later Christian history is also visible. In AD 431 a church council met in Ephesus in a building known as the Church of Mary. On a hill at nearby Selçuk stand the ruins of a great basilica built under Emperor Justinian over the traditional tomb of the apostle John, whom early writers place at Ephesus in old age. The House of the Virgin Mary on a nearby mountain is a much later tradition: it was identified in the nineteenth century, partly guided by the visions of a German mystic, and is honored by many pilgrims; another ancient tradition places Mary's last days in Jerusalem.